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When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.